I Looked Into Okushiobara Motoyu Odekan

In my Komorin Fantasy Travel series, I've been keeping records not just of campsites but also of day-trip hot springs and lodging facilities, one by one. So far I've mostly looked at places that are relatively easy to stay at, but this time I decided to look into something with a slightly different flavor: a so-called "hidden hot spring" inn.

This time I'm covering Okushiobara Motoyu Odekan, located in Nasushiobara City, Tochigi Prefecture. When I found out it's a member of the Association to Protect Japan's Secluded Hot Springs, even as an indoor type I got curious about it, so I decided to look into it in a bit of a staycation mood.

The Short Version

It's a hidden hot spring inn with naturally flowing spring water, proud of its eight baths including the "Sumi-no-yu," and it seemed like a place suited to those who want to settle in and fully enjoy the hot springs themselves.
Apparently the Rakuten Mobile signal rating here came out as a C, so if connectivity matters to you, it's worth checking in advance.

I've laid out the details below.

I Looked Into What Kind of Inn Odekan Is

Odekan is a hot spring ryokan located in the Shiobara Motoyu Onsen area of Nasushiobara City, Tochigi Prefecture, and it's apparently a member of the Association to Protect Japan's Secluded Hot Springs. Looking at the official website, one of its big features is said to be its eight baths, including the "Sumi-no-yu," which is described as "Japan's one and only famous hot spring."

As for lodging rates, they seem to vary depending on room type and season. According to the official website, the rates are roughly as follows.

Larger room with private toilet and upgraded meal plan: around 17,750 yen per night with two meals on weekdays (higher on days before holidays and during busy seasons)
Slightly smaller room with private toilet and upgraded meal plan: around 16,650 yen on weekdays
Room without private toilet, standard meal plan: around 14,450 yen on weekdays
Children's rate (under 15): around 9,900 yen including bedding and meals; children under 6 are around 7,700 yen (it seems there are cases where it's free without bedding or meals)
Check-in is apparently at 1 PM and check-out at 10 AM

Payment seems to be cash only, with no credit card support, so if you're planning to stay overnight or visit for a day trip, it might be a good idea to come prepared with cash in advance. Reservations can apparently be made by phone or through the reservation page on the official website.

Komorin

I thought cash-only is kind of rare these days. It might be a sort of old-fashioned style befitting a hidden hot spring inn.

Checking Out the Character of the "Eight Baths" and the Sumi-no-yu

The big highlight of Odekan does seem to be the variety among its eight baths. Based on the names I could confirm on the official website, the baths include the following.

Sumi-no-yu (mixed bathing, with women-only hours): a bath that appears jet black due to its high iron content, apparently referred to as "Japan's one and only famous hot spring"
Shika-no-yu (mixed bathing): apparently the bath located closest to the spring source
Outdoor bath Iwa-no-yu (mixed bathing) and Kodakara-no-yu (women only): outdoor baths where you can apparently enjoy a view of a clear stream
Takao-no-yu (women only)
Fuji-no-yu (family bath, private use): apparently usable for free without reservation
Heike Kakure-no-yu (mixed bathing) and Gosho-no-yu (mixed bathing): baths with a legend that Heike warriors once hid there

The water quality is apparently a sulfur-containing sodium chloride-bicarbonate hot spring, and the spring temperature for both sources seems to be quite high, in the 50s Celsius range. It's said to be effective for neuralgia, diabetes, and women's health issues, and the official website also explains that the strong mineral content tends to corrode bathroom walls and metal fixtures. Reading through that information, I imagine this is an inn with quite a distinctive character to its baths.

Day-trip bathing is also available, apparently priced at 1,000 yen for adults and 500 yen for children, with reception open from 10 AM to 2 PM and bathing available from 10 AM to 4 PM. You apparently need to bring your own towels. Only the Sumi-no-yu becomes women-only between 2 and 3 PM, so if you're stopping by for a day trip, it might be worth keeping that timing in mind.

Rakuten Mobile Signal Conditions

As someone who's both an indoor type and a driver who rarely gets behind the wheel, connectivity is an essential thing for me to check. When I looked up Odekan's location using the official "My Area Connectivity Simulation" tool, the overall rating came out as "C."

I'm recording this here as the result I found using the company's official tool. Given that it's a hot spring area in the mountains, it seems like a good idea to check the signal conditions in advance. If you're planning to use your phone during your stay, it might be reassuring to check ahead of time.

Komorin

Honestly, a C rating is a bit concerning, but if you're going to a hidden hot spring inn specifically for the hot springs themselves, maybe it's actually nice to forget about signal and just relax.

See Rakuten Mobile Details

I Looked Into Access and Nearby Sightseeing

Odekan is apparently located in the Shiobara Motoyu Onsen area within Nikko National Park. If traveling by train and bus, the route introduced involves taking the Tohoku Shinkansen to Nasushiobara Station, then a JR bus for about 60 minutes. If using the Aizu Kinugawa Line, there's also a route where you get off at Kamisanyo Shiobara Station and take a JR Yu-bus to the Motoyu entrance before walking the rest of the way.

If driving, it apparently takes about 35 minutes from the Nishinasuno Shiobara IC on the Tohoku Expressway to reach the entrance of Motoyu Onsen, and the inn is located about 4 km further from there. There's apparently parking for 25 cars, which might be reassuring for those visiting by car. Since I rarely drive myself, I read through this imagining being driven there by someone else.

Nearby sightseeing spots mentioned on the official website include the Momijidani Suspension Bridge, Ryuka Falls, and the Shiobara Monogatari-kan storytelling museum, though there was no specific information about the distance or travel time from Odekan. It might be a good plan to make the hot springs themselves the main purpose of the trip, and add nearby sightseeing depending on your mood and schedule.

Wrapping Up

Looking back over everything, Okushiobara Motoyu Odekan left me with the impression of being a hidden hot spring inn with naturally flowing spring water, whose appeal lies in its eight distinctive baths including the Sumi-no-yu. Learning about the strength of the water quality and the backstory behind each bath makes it feel like a place that offers a different kind of enjoyment compared to a typical hot spring ryokan.

On the other hand, payment is cash only, and the Rakuten Mobile signal came out with a C rating, so it might be reassuring to keep those points in mind before visiting. If that concerns you, it might be worth checking the official Rakuten Mobile tool ahead of your planned visit date.

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